The longest ride - N2

The EN2 (Estrada Nacional 2) is the longest road in Portugal. It is 739 kilometres long and it’s the only one in Europe that crosses a country in its entirety. There are only two others in the world that surpass it: Route 66 in America and Ruta 40 in Argentina.  It is a route that crosses the interior of Portugal from Chaves in the North to Faro in the South.

Many people take this journey via caravan or motorbike, but it is an excellent trip to take by bike.  To ride the N2, many take 7 or even 8 days but it can be done in 6 days.  The terrain, vegetation, weather and cuisine changes as you move down the country; what remained constant throughout was the Portuguese hospitality and support for our little adventure.

We were a group of 6 friends from Cascais; two Englishmen, two Irishmen and two Australians and the jokes did not stop.  We travelled up in my van with our bikes and the plan was each day someone would drive whilst the others rode.  The driver would locate a place for lunch; park up then ride back to meet the others and another would drive from lunch to the end destination of each day.

We planned the trip for 7 nights and 6 days of riding and here is our N2 guide broken down by day.

Day 0: Drive north and stay overnight in Chaves

Stayed in “Alojamento Central”. Spacious room, clean and good breakfast.

Day 1: Chaves -> Peso de Regúa (88km and +1250m)

The morning was grey but dry.  We actually drove north up to the border with Spain and started our bike trip there before heading back into Chaves (10k away) and starting the N2 proper. 

There had been some bad forest fires only the week before and we cycled through the damaged areas of Aguiar before taking lunch in Vila Real (Torre das Flores Churrasqueira). I had driven the first half so after lunch, I jumped on my bike and Stephen drove the van.  It was mostly downhill into Peso de Régua and some fantastic views of the Douro valley with Peso being on the River Douro itself.  A delicious dinner followed by a walk along the river.  We stayed at Residencial Douro.  This has been re-furbished since I last stayed and is modern, clean and spacious.  We were able to store the bikes securely on their premises.

Day 2: Peso de Regúa -> Tondela (110km and +1700m)

Sun was shining.  Straight after crossing the river, we had a 30km climb with an average of 3%. We stopped in the beautiful town of Lamêgo before a pit stop at Castro Daire and lunch at a roadside diner (Rouxinol). Initially the owner seemed put out he would have to serve us but he warmed up and they cooked some hearty food for us and we set off for the final run to Tondela. 

When we arrive in Viseu, we had our first puncture and as my legs were tired, I decided to jump in the van with Stephen and arrive ahead of the others in Tondela.

Our accommodation at Ninho D'Arara was a new guesthouse and had a small cafe and terrace to relax after our ride.  Unfortunately, the owner had messed up the booking but had already arranged for a hotel room for 2 of us in the town.  The owner also let us wash and dry some clothes which was very nice of them.  We found a great pizza restaurant that night at Gastrófilo. Again, we had locked storage foe our bikes. 

Day 3: Tondela -> Pedrógão Grande/Pequeno (122km and +1800m)

Rain today.  Andrew DS got the lucky straw and was driving.  We crossed the River Dão a couple of times as the N2 winded south.  The rain was constant and quite heavy; we stopped quickly for soup, bifanas and coffee and planned a lunch stop after the climb out of Gois.  This was 15km with an average of 3.5%.  Ronan and Andrew OB were up the road somewhere while myself, Alan and Stephen took a steadier pace.  But as we climbed the rain got heavier, the wind got stronger and it was getting cold.  We finally made it to the cafe (around 90km in) and all sat hungrily eating more soup, bifanas, chocolate and coffee.   Some of us changed into dry gear but Alan and Andrew OB jumped into the van.  It was cold up on the serra.  Ronan, Stephen and I headed out and downhill.  Bad idea for me, hands were already numb and descending in the cold, wind and rain was not clever.  I made it to the bottom of the descent, happy I had cycled 102km and stopped at a bus stop waiting for the van to drive past and pick me up. 

The other two made it the Pedrógão Grande, we all crossed the River Zêzere and we were all relieved to get indoors at the Hotel da Montanha and enjoy the spa.  A delicious menu at the hotel restaurant finished off what was a tough day on the bikes.

Day 4: Pedrógão Grande -> Montargil (130km and +1300m)

Rain again but today a little warmer.   After being wet most of the morning, the rain stopped, and the warm wind dried us out.  We were eager to get to Abrantes for lunch as we could see more rain clouds moving in.  We got to the outskirts of the city before the heavens opened and we were once again soaking wet.  Another wet lunch…another change of gear.  But the skies cleared after lunch and after crossing the River Tagus, the land certainly becoming flatter and the wind dried us out in no time.  The problem was now the block headwind all the way into Montargil and one final downpour which we managed to miss by jumping into the only café for miles.  We stayed at a lovely guesthouse, Casa Dona Maria, which had an excellent restaurant next door owned by the same family.

Day 5: Montargil -> Aljustrel (150km +1700m)

Heavy rain in the morning and Ronan’s turn in the van.  We delayed our start in case the rain eased off but it didn’t so we headed out for another wet day. Wet and strong headwind plus only our second puncture of the trip summed up our morning.  A real difference in the landscape today; we were in proper Alentejo.  Long straights, lots of rollers, cork and olive trees and a warmer temperature.  We stopped for an excellent lunch in Monte-o-novo (Pipocas).  We said goodbye to Andrew OB who had to get back to Lisbon and was picked up.

After lunch, the sun came out and it was an excellent afternoon of cycling albeit tough.  The last 30km in Aljustrel was hard but we worked together and finished together.  We stayed in Flag Hotel Villa right in the centre and had another great meal opposite the hotel.

Day 6: Aljustrel -> Faro (120km +1000m)

Final day cycling and the sun was shining, plus the wind had changed direction and we would have a tailwind all the way to Faro.  I was back in the van for the first half.  Decided to at lunch in Ameixial and asked the local café (Central da Serra) to prepare some lunch while waiting for the guys to arrive.

After lunch, I switched with Alan, and it was pretty much full gas into Faro.  We celebrated together at the end of the N2 with a beer and was a excellent end to our bike trip.  We stayed at my parent’s house near Almancil and ate at one of the local restaurants.  The day after, we loaded the van with the bikes and headed home, to Cascais.

I thoroughly recommend doing this bike trip.  There are companies that can guide and support you or you can navigate and organise yourselves.  Best time of year is June or September; when the weather is usually good but not too hot.